Shaved Brussels Sprout Slaw
November 6, 2011
It has been a slow transition to fall around here. Halloween has come and passed, but until today the skies have been clear and the air relatively warm. This must be the reason I have not yet completely embraced the hearty warm foods of the darker months. Now daylight savings has come to an end and the rains are finally pelting down. The last of the tomatoes found their way into salsa and the eggplants into stir fries. It is time to break out the symbolic fall and winter vegetables and what better to start with than brussels sprouts in salad form?
Shaved Brussels Sprout Slaw is a bright and crisp salad. Brussels sprouts (which are rarely served raw) are sliced very thin and tossed with red onion, a lemony mustard vinaigrette, and percorino romano cheese. If you think you do not like brussels sprouts, be sure to give this a try. Leaving them raw keeps them crisp and mild in flavor with none of the distinctive odor that comes from cooking them. Serve this salad with just about anything, but I love to serve it beside some other rich saucy dish where it adds a fresh and acidic counterpoint.
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Chicken Mole (and a few thoughts on the season)
October 31, 2011
We recently lost a chicken, which made me think of how fortunate we have been since our children were born not to lose any family or friends that they are close to. This presents a challenge though, in how to teach our children of the role of death in life and of grief and how one continues on in the face of it. But then, is that not what this season is all about? The dying of summer and light leading us into the cool introspective winter. The death of one season and the birth of another.
If one looks beyond what Halloween has become for many- an excuse for sugar indulgence or a chance to dress as a mass murderer or a whore, this time is an opportunity to commune with those who have passed on from life into death. Our ancestors, our contemporaries, our friends who are no longer among the living. The Mexican holiday of El Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is especially intriguing. I love the imagery of the brightly decorated skulls that signify the integral part that death plays in life. We act this out with each meal, taking the life and energy contained in plants and animals and bringing it into our bodies to fuel our own existence.
So, while looking at some pictures of celebrations of Dia de los Muertos, my son and I began to talk of death. I told him how death was a part of life and that it need not be a scary thing. That all that is living must one day die (like our carved pumpkins destined for the compost),but that death would fuel the beginning of new life. He nodded and agreed, reminding me of how incredibly sane and stable children are and how grateful I am that my life is blessed with two very special little people.
Chicken Mole is a perfect dish for Dia de los Muertos. A thick sauce, rich with chiles, nuts, and the signature chocolate, bathes chicken as it slowly cooks and absorbs the luscious flavors. This is a special meal, requiring a bit of time to prepare the sauce. Feel free to make it ahead and keep in the refrigerator or freeze. It is worth every step to create this incredible sauce. Serve Chicken Mole with simple rice.
Note: The mole is also excellent with turkey. Try it as an unexpected gravy on Thanksgiving. Enjoy!
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Moorish-Style Chickpeas and Kale
October 29, 2011
There is something magical about a recipe that can turn the simplest ingredients into something remarkable. A recipe that causes one to dig through the dish looking for the secret ingredient, the one that turns an otherwise plain looking pile of beans and greens into something worth looking forward to. This is such a recipe. A deceptively simple list of parts come together into a whole that is bursting with flavor, texture, and depth. If you pay any heed to the opinions of my son (and you should because eating is his favorite pastime- lucky for me), you should know that he likes this dish “to infinity!”
My husband brought this recipe home. It was a rare valuable fruit from his long hours spent on the road, commuting and listening to the radio. All Things Considered on NPR ran a series on how to feed a family for under $10. This dish may look like college potluck fare (at least if you went to school in Oregon like I did), but the tastes are elevated well beyond. Playing a lead role are the garlic cloves which are browned in ample olive oil, then mashed with bread fried in the same garlicky oil. The toasted bread, sweet rich garlic, along with notes of saffron and cumin turn this simple dish into one worth planning a meal around. The recipe below is modified from the original in a couple of ways. Most notably, I subbed in kale for the recommended spinach. Kale holds up well if you choose to make this a bit in advance, it is also more available this time of year. I have made it with spinach as well though and it is delicious. The bean cooking method is simplified a bit and salt measurements are added. This dish is a one-pot wonder that necessitates no sides, but do not forget a nice glass of wine to wash it down.
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Acorn Squash Rings with Apple Glaze
October 23, 2011
Nothing says fall like winter squash… and apples… and walnuts, so clearly this is the perfect side dish to make NOW. We are big fans of butternut squash around here, check out the Butternut and Black Bean Salad from last year. This year though, somehow butternut squash never made it into the ground and we are the happily storing quite a few acorn squashes that took their place in the planting beds. There are lots of fun ways to cook up these beautiful treats, but my favorite is to make Acorn Squash Rings with Apple Glaze.
Take care in slicing the squash, as that is as good a way as any to loose a finger. It helps to take a small slice off of one side, then place the cut side down. That will give the squash some stability as you hack into it. Scoop out the membrane and seeds and they are ready to steam. Do not forget to try on some squash glasses for size! Note: at least with my kids, they are more likely to eat the veggies if they have a hand in making/playing with them! (For more ideas on getting kids to eat their veggies check out this post.)
This recipe is not mine and if you look you will find many versions on the web. While that may be a turn-off to some, I say it is evidence of a great recipe that is worth sharing. My version uses non-clarified butter and less of it, but otherwise it is basically the same. The tender squash soaks in the sweet and tangy apple glaze and the candied walnuts add a pleasant crunch. These rings look beautiful on the plate, making it great for a weeknight dinner or special enough for a holiday. My mother-in-law first introduced me to this yummy dish with asparagus laced through the centers of the rings (as you will find is the most common version.) I opted not to include the asparagus this time (there is no chance of finding local asparagus in October), but love the way they make this into a truly elegant side dish. If we have any squash leftover in springtime, I will definitely add them in. The acorn squash rings are attractive enough to stand on their own, or fill the centers with a scoop of wild rice or stuffing.
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Classic Apple Crisp
October 17, 2011
When I see my children voraciously take down one apple after another, it is hard for me to believe that I hated apples as a child. But you remember those days, do you not? Living in a suburban/ urban community before the food revolution, when an apple was a Red Delicious, donning a shiny waxy coat, stored for too long under the wrong conditions. Apples were mealy and bland with tough skins and I did not want to eat them. At around age 10, I discovered Granny Smiths. Ohhh a tart apple, I began to adjust my verdict, but still they were nothing to sing of. It may have been a long journey, but I have finally learned the virtues of the apple.
We have one apple tree in our backyard, but it supports five varieties of apples, all grafted on different limbs. These are REAL apples. Apples with character, flavor, aroma, variations of texture and shape. The apples ripen at different times keeping our family flush with apples through most of the season. For this we are grateful, because our kids love apples. No need to tell them the “apple a day” story, left to their own devices they would gladly eat more than that. Fortunately, my parents have multiple apple trees, so our pantry generally has a large box of apples to choose from through the months of August and September. We also keep a box full in the fridge for longer storage. What we can not fit in the refrigerator is cooked down into applesauce, sliced and dried, or cut and bagged for the freezer. This ensures we can enjoy the taste of our own apples through the winter.
One of the simplest and most delicious ways to treat apples is to prepare a Classic Apple Crisp. The apples are cored and sliced, then tossed in a bit of sugar. Lay them down in a buttered baking dish and sprinkle a mixture of flour, butter, oats, and brown sugar. Sweet, tart, buttery, delicious. Do not leave out the vanilla ice cream. In fact if you ask my son, he will straighten his posture, squint his eyes, and tell you, “The rule is: you must have ice cream with apple crisp” in a tone that is frighteningly authoritative for a five year old. It is best to do what he says.
My Pantry Shelf 