Salt Preserved Lemons
February 23, 2011
Yes, it is true, I’m on a serious citrus kick. Why not? What better to brighten the palette on a dark and dreary winter day, than the vibrant colors and tart flavors of lemons, oranges, grapefruit, and lime? Lemons are my current favorite. Last summer, in an act of manifest destiny, we cut down our lemon tree to make way for a larger outdoor dining area. Luckily our neighbors have supplied us with a steady stream of Meyer lemons to fuel each of my citric indulgences. The latest… Salt Preserved Lemons.
This recipe comes from my grandmother’s recipe file. She, like me, sought out ways to celebrate each harvest and make it last. The first time I made these, I had no idea what to do with them. Luckily, they last a ridiculously long time in the refrigerator, so I had plenty of time to accumulate recipes. (After a year in the fridge, they still tasted fine, but I tossed them because it just seemed wrong to be eating something so old.) They are used often in North African and Middle Eastern foods. They can be added to dishes whole or you can remove the pulp and pith and add the preserved zest.
Biscuit-topped Chicken Pot Pie
February 21, 2011
We all have those meals that are burned in our memory for one reason or another. These are the meals that when we recall them, define a time in our lives. Though I’m slightly embarrassed to admit it, chicken pot pie is one of those meals for me. Occasionally my parents would leave me at home to go out for the night. I was always excited, because I could have a frozen dinner (those were not common fare in our home). One of my favorite dinners was always a chicken pot pie. I loved the creamy chicken and the flaky crust. Invariably, I burnt my anxious tongue on the steaming hot sauce. Those hot little pies were the highlight of my night. Even so, I always knew that the dish was not quite right. The chicken and vegetables were too small and uniformly cut. The sauce was too salty. The crust too bland. At that time, it never occurred to me that this special meal could be made at home!
Biscuit-topped Chicken Pot Pie is my effort to right the wrongs of pot pies of my past that missed the mark. Every ingredient and every step come together to create what I imagine a pot pie should be like. The chicken is poached in broth, then cut into large tender pieces, so there is no mistaking its presence. The vegetables are abundant and fresh. The potatoes are creamy. The sauce is based on a homemade chicken stock that is reduced and mixed with fresh thyme and cream. The potential of this dish is dependent on the quality of the broth used. I highly recommend using your own stock. It is so easy to make and the flavor is incomparable.
Oh, and the topping. Though I do love pie crust atop meat pies, biscuits are my favorite. Floating the biscuits on the pot pie allows the tops to brown and puff and the bottom to saturate with the rich gravy. It is the best of both worlds. This is definitely a comfort food.
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Satsuma Vanilla Upside-down Cake
February 18, 2011
This is definitely one of my favorite winter cakes. Every year, I watch our satsumas ripen and dream of this dessert. I invent reasons to gather with friends, just so I can share this cake. I am not to be trusted with this buttery, tangy, orange vanilla cake without many mouths with which to compete. It is that good. Make it quick, while satsuma mandarins are in peak season! This cake would be great with any tangerine or mandarin. We have an overabundance of satsumas so that is what I use.
Upside down cakes are a new thing for me. Nothing against the legendary pineapple upside-down cake, but it has never really captured my attention. To be honest, I have a hard time veering from chocolate when choosing a dessert to make, especially in the winter. This cake is so incredibly flavorful, moist, and buttery that I really don’t miss the cocoa (If someone has an idea of how to make this better by adding chocolate, please let me know. Though as is, I think it may be perfect.) Using real vanilla scraped from the pod infuses the cake with a serious dose of deliciousness.
To make this cake, start by thinly slicing the satsumas. It is easiest to use a mandoline, but if you don’t have one you can use a knife. Be sure to make the slices as even as possible. Blanch the satsuma slices and then dry on a cloth. Melt the butter, vanilla, and part of the sugar in the cake pan, then arrange the satsuma slices.
Gently layer on the cake batter and bake in the oven until the top is browned. This batter is fabulous with other toppings as well. I recently made a cranberry upside cake with this base and it turned out delicious! This cake is best eaten the day it is made. It is delicious the next day as well, but the top gets a bit moist.
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Fresh Herb Chevre
February 15, 2011
Last weekend, I took my first cooking class! It was a soft cheese making class taught by Mary Karlin, an expert in artisan cheese. It was such fun to spend a day with other hungry folks trying to expand our culinary repertoire. One of the cheeses we made was chevre. It is incredibly easy to make by simply adding culture to warm goat’s milk and allowing the mixture to sit overnight so the curd can form. I’ll admit my product wasn’t exactly as I dreamed, it was a bit too dry and crumbly instead of creamy. Still, it was delicious.
I love the tangy creaminess of chevre. I often serve it as an appetizer with caramelized onion relish or pepper jelly. Another favorite preparation is simply rolling the log in fresh herbs, lemon zest, and ground pepper. It is the perfect last minute appetizer because it is quick, inexpensive, and delicious. It looks like something really special, even though it is incredibly easy to create.
Using fresh herbs for this recipe is crucial. Fortunately, I live in a climate where my garden provides fresh herbs year round. The following recipe is more of an idea and guideline than a recipe to strictly follow. The precise mixture of the herbs is not crucial, but I like half of the herb volume to be parsley and the other half to be more intense herbs like thyme, rosemary, oregano, and the lemon zest.
The Fresh Herb Chevre is delicious with grilled or toasted bread. I slice the bread, brush or spray it with olive oil, and then grill or broil until toasted. Guests serve themselves slices of the herb cheese on the toasted bread.
Fresh Herb Chevre
makes one herby loaf of goat cheese
1 8-ounce log of chevre
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon minced lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Mince herbs and zest. Mix thoroughly with black pepper. Roll chevre in herb mixture. Serve with toasted bread.
Here is a printer friendly version of the recipe: Fresh Herb Chevre
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Chocolate Pudding
February 13, 2011
Originally I was planning on making a decadent chocolate mousse for Valentine’s Day. I craved the over-the-top chocolately richness of a mousse, but at the store with cream in hand, I reconsidered. Valentine’s Day or not, I wasn’t feeling like I could justify my family and I consuming a pint of cream. Then I remembered pudding! Chocolate pudding may be the ultimate chocolate comfort food. Each bite sings of childhood, yet by using dark chocolate and the optional addition of liqueur, it can be quite the adult indulgence as well.
This chocolate pudding is very rich. It incorporates both unsweetened cocoa and semi-sweet chocolate. As with all chocolate desserts, it will only be as good as the chocolate you use. I like Ghiradelli, which is widely available in supermarkets. Feel free to cater to your personal craving. If you want something even more rich, use bittersweet chocolate in place of the semi-sweet. If you want a milder chocolate flavor, more akin to the kid-friendly box pudding mixes, cut the semi-sweet chocolate in half. You can experiment with low-fat milk as well. It would probably work fine, but I haven’t tried it myself. You really can not go wrong. Plus, if you have only made pudding from the box, I imagine you will be fully converted to this method. It is super easy and quick and the result is tremendously satisfying, just look at my happy Little Miss!
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